Clothing tradition

(above) Peski (reindeer fur coat) from Kittilä, 1800s, drawing. T. I. Itkonen

The traditional clothing heritage of the Forest Sámi can be traced continuously from the 1600s to the present day. The wearers of these garments are Forest Sámi — they descend from Forest Sámi families, they identify as Sámi, and by wearing their ancestral clothing, they represent their culture and cultural community.

From a 17th-century Sámi burial site in Tanhuanvaara, Savukoski (the Mukkala cemetery), remains of traditional Forest Sámi garments such as peski (reindeer fur coats) have been found, along with entire fur shoes complete with shoelaces. Later, in the 18th century, several written accounts describe the clothing traditions of the Forest Sámi, including both everyday and festive garments, which were already at that time richly decorated woolen and broadcloth outfits similar to today's Sámi clothing.

In the 19th century, traditional clothing is also mentioned in the estate inventories of Forest Sámi ancestors, which further proves the continuity of the tradition and the use of traditional garments. The oldest surviving Forest Sámi garments date back to the 1800s.

Photographs taken in the early 20th century also attest to the use of traditional clothing among the Forest Sámi — everyday wear used in daily life and reindeer herding, and festive wear worn on church trips and at markets. These photographs and estate records also confirm that Forest Sámi women wore their traditional attire. Contrary to misinformation, this was not a marketing gimmick for Lapland tourism in the 1930s or a waitress costume.

There were not multiple changes of outfit throughout the day, so the Forest Sámi garments served as both everyday and workwear. Decorations on the clothing were typically placed on the seams (except for the chest arch, which was likely originally a reinforcement for a pocket opening leading into the coat lining), both to strengthen and seal the seams (for warmth). The same purpose applied to the decorative elements of the kilpi (shield-like chest piece).

In the Kuolajärvi style, the kilpi in older garments provided protection against wind and cold. In the oldest garments, the kilpi was sewn on to prevent it from detaching during work. The kilpi has also been used in the clothing of other Sámi groups throughout history (see image: Nutti-Niku). Later, the kilpi was removed from the clothing and replaced by a deep collar borrowed from summer garments.

Clothing nowadays

The wartime period in Lapland took a heavy toll on the traditional clothing heritage of the Forest Sámi, destroying many old garments and handicrafts. After the war, the clothing tradition experienced a brief revival, but with the rise of the clothing industry in the 1960s, it began to decline again — though it never completely disappeared.

Today, Forest Sámi clothing has made a return, and traditional handicrafts are experiencing a revival. For example, in Kittilä, a so-called general model has been created for those whose families no longer have preserved traditional garments to use as a reference. On the other hand, from surviving outfits, new models specific to families or villages have been developed.